The Wild Wild West: Visiting Western Mongolia & The Altai Mountains

The snow crunched under the horses hooves as we gingerly trotted up into the foggy mist ahead. It was mid morning, but early enough that we were the only group riding up at that moment. Aside from a few dogs rolling around in the snow and chasing after our horse tracks, it wasn’t until we reached the glacier that we saw anyone else around. 

I blew hot air out of my mouth, expelling my breath from the small space between where my hat, hood and scarf left a sliver of skin exposed to the elements. In the silence surrounding us, I could almost hear the cloud of air vaporize in the cold. Once the fog cleared from the front of my face, I could see the mountains towering out of the snow in the distance. After only a couple of hours, we made it to Potanin Glacier, the largest in Mongolia.  

Like what I envision the perpetual winter of Narnia, glistening frosted powdery snow all around. The glacier sits among the Altai Tavan Bogd Mountain, one of the largest in the region. Named after a Russian explorer, Potanin Glacier, like other glaciers throughout the world, has been slowly decreasing in size due to the climate crisis. The area is known for trekking, camping and horseback riding, making it a true paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. Tavan Bogd, the “5 Saints”, is one of the highest altitudes in the country and the Altai Mountain Range stretches through Mongolia, China, Russia and Kazakhstan. 

The Altai Mountains & Bayan Ulgii

Western Mongolia, specifically the Bayan Ulgii (or Bayan-Ölgii) province, is the westernmost aimags, or districts in the country. It is home to the only Muslim and Kazakh majority, making it unique among the rest of the country which is predominantly Buddhist. This region kisses the borders of China and Russia. 

Visiting western Mongolia is unlike any other place. The vast landscape, the lack of infrastructure is what is both scary and exciting about traveling to this region. For a traveler who is used to a resort beach vacation, this is far, far out of your comfort zone. For an adventure traveler who is seeking something new and fresh, visiting western Mongolia is just what you never knew you needed. 

The region is one of the most ethnically diverse, with nomadic groups protecting their cultural heritage and traditions, this area is one of the best places to experience hundreds of years of living remotely with the land. 

Things to do in Bayan Ulgii 

The western region of Mongolia is diverse, and because of the unique landscapes and distinctive ethnic groups, it is the perfect trip for adventure travelers. There is something for everyone in the western province, but a love of the outdoors and nature is paramount. 

Trekking Through National Parks 

The Altai Mountain National Park is located in one of the most remote locations in Mongolia. The 6,000 plus square miles is home to the highest mountain in the country, Mt. Khuiten and the region can range from freezing winter temperatures, to a breezy, pleasant climate. Along with pristine mountain ranges, there are three beautiful lakes, Khoton, Dayan and Khurgan. The National Parks here are wonderful locations for diving deep into the heart of Mongolian nature and because of their location, it often feels like you are the only one there. If you decide not to visit the Potanin Glacier, there are nine others in the region. 

Petroglyphs and Ancient Art 

Ancient history in Central Asia appears in the form of petroglyphs and stone carvings. There are well preserved and thousands of stone drawings and statues are found in several areas throughout the area. Sites like the Petroglyphic Complex of the Atai Region are UNESCO world heritage sites that date back all the way to the Neolithic and Bronze Ages.

Within the prehistoric stonework, be sure to find the carved Deer Stone, carved megaliths dating back centuries that still stand out in Mongolian plains today. There are said to be only around 700 of these in existence, 500 of which are found in Mongolia. It’s a rare representation of ancient imagery. It is impressive to be driving through such a remote area of Asia, and stumbling upon 3,000 year old carvings. 

Eagle Hunters 

The most spectacular thing to observe is the tradition of golden eagle hunting. These birds are trained at a young age to assist in the capture of small animals, like foxes or hares, which they swoop down and clutch within their massive talons. There are approximately 250 of these eagle hunters in the western province, many of whom have learned this skill from generations of hunters over hundreds of years. While most eagle hunters are men, there are a few girls who have learned the family trade. Seeing these raptors glide through the air with ease and work as a team with their trainers is like watching a well choreographed dance. 

Are Observing Eagle Hunters Ethical? 

When it comes to choosing activities while traveling, I’m extremely cautious of ethical encounters with nature, locals and wildlife. Part of being a more mindful traveler is to think of the consequences of my choices when visiting other countries. It’s important to know these things when looking for ethical travel activities: 

• Where is my money going? Are your tourism dollars going to the right place, in this instance, are the eagle hunters being reimbursed by the tour company in a way that doesn’t exploit their tradition. 
• How are the staff, the animals, the land being treated? What are conditions like for employees, keeping in mind that the animals can sometimes also be considered workers. 
• Does the activity initially make you uncomfortable? Go with your gut. If something doesn’t feel right, it probably isn’t. Ask questions to get any answers you’re looking for to ensure that the experience or encounter is a reputable one. 

While I’m usually hesitant about animals in captivity, this is a dying art that has deep roots in the region and the nomadic tribes that hunt here. The eagles are treated like we would treat a dog or cat in an American household. They are fed well, often the eagles are kept indoors with the family but most often, they are perched on large stumps outside the gers. They are trained based on a reward system, not tormented or tortured. These birds are used for hunting, and every part of the animal caught are used by the family. These are all important aspects of the eagle hunt that informed my decision when choosing to observe their rituals. 

Staying with a Nomadic Family 

Eco Tour Mongolia made it easy to connect with local families throughout our trip. Visiting western Mongolia means you are out in the WILD. Aside from the city of Ulgii, there are only a few larger communities in the province and otherwise you will only come across a few gers (yurts or tented homes) dotting the grasslands and mountains of the west. While towns and cities may be few and far between, hospitality is ever abundant. 

Staying with locally is one of the ways to contribute to more responsible tourism practices. It allows your tourism dollars to stay within the community you’re staying with AND gives you a more genuine view into the place in which you visit. The nomadic peoples of western Mongolia live a simple, laborious life. Many are herders and farmers, living off the land. It is no luxury, there is no running water, little electricity, and minimalistic living quarters, but this is what makes for an unforgettable experience. Seeing other ways of living is a great reminder or our core similarities among extreme differences. 

How to Visit Western Mongolia 

The country itself isn’t the easiest to get to, but it is worth the extra effort. The current airport only has one runway, but there is a new airport that will be completed with the intent of taking more international air traffic. Currently, there are only a few airlines that you can choose from for flights into Mongolia. Mongolian Airlines, Korean Air, Turkish Airlines, Aeroflot and China Air are the five to pick from. Most European flights will layover from Moscow, while Asian flights will layover from Beijing, Osaka or Seoul. Knowing this before planning can help you find a faster, cheaper flight. 

Now that you’re in Mongolia, getting to the western provinces unfortunately takes another domestic flight. Uglii is the starting and ending point, but the real adventure lies beyond the province capital. Paved roads stretching from town quickly disappear, dirt roads lead you to the adventures in store when visiting western Mongolia. Your driver is the best asset, they have grown up in the area and know each valley, each turn by heart. 

When visiting western Mongolia, be prepared for a vacation experience unlike any other. There are only about 3 million people living in the country, and over half are in the capital. With such a scattered and small population throughout the rest of the provinces, there are massive stretches of undeveloped land. 

Thanks so much to Eco Tour Mongolia for providing us with a fantastic stay while visiting Mongolia. They took care to create a spectacular trip that showcases the beauty of the country and I look forward to traveling with them again. While I was a guest of their tour company, my thoughts, opinions and feelings on the trip are as always, my very own.