Visiting Poland: Conscious City Breaks to Krakow

Poland. It may not initially find its way to the top of the list of European countries to visit, but I promise it’s worth reconsidering. Visiting Krakow Poland is a perfect addition to any Central European itinerary. There’s everything you need in a European holiday; good food, old town squares, history and architecture. Planning one of your city breaks to Krakow is a great introduction to the country. So, what exactly is there to see and do? 

Are We Eastern or Are We Central?

The great debate. I think the response from locals seems to be “We aren’t Eastern Europe, Ukraine is.” Sorry Ukraine. That’s the answer you’ll hear most often from the countries who fall on the border of what some travelers may think is Eastern Europe. Czech, Polish and Slovakians I met would consistently all respond to the same phrase if the conversation lent its way to geography. I guess I’m a bit of a “cartophile” so the topic is interesting. I’ve always loved learning about maps, changing regions through history and time.

There’s a geographical border and historical border that effects the way we look at Eastern Europe or Central Europe. So why do Central European countries seem to have distain for being lumped into the Eastern European category? From what I’ve been told, Europeans don’t like perpetuating the stereotype that connects with a less prosperous nation with communist past.

Neighborhood Watch

Ok, so now that we know where we are, let’s find out where we want to stay! One thing that makes city breaks to Krakow so enticing is the diverse neighborhoods in a walkable destination. You can bounce from each part of town easily, but find yourself in a culturally or visually different space. 

Old Town

The heart of the city, Old Town is where you’ll find those iconic buildings, fortified walls and charming storefronts. Otherwise known as Stare Miasto, the old part of the city has the iconic market square. It’s the largest of its kind in all of Europe and is a great starting point for exploration.

Kazi

Kazimierz is the old jewish quarter of the city and has become something of an ‘it’ part of town. Trendy bars and restaurants are popping up in the small old buildings in the neighborhood. It could be argued that no other area in Europe has maintained Jewish roots post war than this Krakow neighborhood. 

Nowa Huta

Post Communist architecture, on the outskirts of town. The interesting aspect of this part of the city is that it was a socialist planned neighborhood. In the 1940’s Nowa Huta was funded by the Soviet Union to build a city within the constructs of the “socialist realism” that the regime was trying to convey at the time. The more cold & calculated style is a reminder of the complicated past Krakow holds. 

Podgorze

Just a short walk across the bridge is residential area away from the tourist trail but equally as entertaining. A revived part of town, Podgorze is a budding place for cafe culture and is home to several of the important museums and monuments of the city. The rebirth of the region breathes life back into what was the site of Nazis deporting thousands of Jews to the ghetto. The main square’s 70 empty chairs is an homage and memorial to this forced life.

City Breaks to Krakow: Things to Do 

Walking tours are often a quick, free way for me to get to know the city I’m visiting. I use it as a “trail run” to find out more about famous monuments, architecture and neighborhoods to explore more on my own. I went on several Walkative free walking tours and would highly recommend. 

MOCAK, a modern art museum is a phenomenal space to view contemporary art. Visiting a museum in a foreign country can give you glimpse into the local creative arts scene as well as a chance to see certain famous pieces that aren’t found anywhere else. The museum is located on the former grounds of Schindlers Factory. The Schindler Museum is has a permanent exhibit delving into the history of the Nazi regime in Krakow during World War II. If you can’t get to visit Auschwitz, going to places like this in the city is an important way to learn more about Krakow’s complicated past with the dark history of Nazi Occupation. 

Ulica Kanonicza is a street where you’re going early in the morning to walk the cobble stone and marvel at the renaissance style architecture. It is the medieval section of Krakow. One of my favorite places to walk if you can find a moment here for yourself. Ulica Jozefa street in Kazimierz is where you’ll be taking a stroll if you’re shopping for antiques. 

 

Wawel Castle sits overlooking Old Town on a hill. The fortified walls are home to several royal buildings and while there are guided tours, entering the complex itself is free to walk around. Be sure to peer down towards the Vistual River to find the fire-breathing dragon statue. Paying homage to the legend that the dragon lived in a cave here, eating locals and livestock. 

Unique Travel Tip: In a small corner of the courtyard, there is a wall that is said to be one of the earth’s chakra points. Allegedly that means it is a space with some of the world’s most powerful spiritual energy. Go stand there for a minute and see if you feel anything! 

Tytano is a former tobacco factory turned urban multi purpose facility. Here you’ll find restaurants, shops, a beer garden and art galleries. Spending an afternoon here will be a sure way to intermix with local Krakow residents and is the perfect hang out for a warm summer day. 

Florianska Street is the famous pedestrian route leading to the main square in Old Town. St. Florian’s gate is at the far end of the road, and is a good meeting point in town. The road has several contradictions, some of the older facades of medieval buildings are on this street, but so is a McDonalds & a Starbucks. Town Hall Tower is the only standing original building in the main square or Rynek glowny. 

Where to Eat in Krakow

A good Krakow city break wouldn’t be complete without eating at some good food. There are a surprising number of options for healthy, locally sourced meals in town. As a visitor, my mind was that it would be meat and perogie heavy dishes. When I was in Poland, I for certain ate my fair share of perogies, but was so happy to have other organic and veggie heavy options for meals. 

Veggie Friendly & Breakfast Options 

There are a lot of veggie friendly options in the Krakow. The Fitagain Cafe   is a bright, airy cafe is a healthy alternative without skimping on the flavor. Located right next to Old Town square, it’s a great choice for late breakfast or lunch spot. Krowarzywa Vegan Burger  is a delicious plant based restaurant offering up some tasty alternatives to your traditional burgers. Glonojad is a cute little vegetarian restaurant with perogies good enough for even the pickiest eater. 

Bagel Mama was my go to breakfast spot. New York style bagels in the Kazimierz district, it’s bringing authentic American breakfast to Poland. If French is more your style, hit up Charlotte. This bistro has homemade pastries and breads and are serving up breakfast all day. 

Dinners & Drinks 

Hamsa is THE place to go for great Israeli food. Located in the Jewish Quarter, it’s the perfect location for some light bites and drinks. Also located in the same neighborhood, Le Sacandale is a breakfast joint by day and a hip cocktail bar by night. Another evening spot is Sissi Restaurant & Wine. A sleek, simple space with organic food options. Locally sourced ingredients, fresh and seasonal menu items have elevated the menu. 

On a sunny weekend afternoon, check out a more residential area of the city and Blonia Park. Pino Garden is the place to eat outdoors and taste a fresh take on Polish favorites or perfectly baked pizzas. 

Street Food & Shots 

Zapiekanki is the street food in Krakow. An open-faced sandwich with melted cheese, spicy ketchup and you choose your favorite other ingredients. The best place for it is Plac Nowy, grab a hand held snack, take a seat and people watch. If a bagel and a pretzel had a baby, it would be the other popular street food, Obwarzanek. A round and crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside, it’s a great on the go afternoon treat. 

Wodka Bar is last on the list. If you’re a people watcher, it’s where you may end up spending the most time, being just a stone’s throw from the main square. You may pass by it without much thought, except inside is a massive collection of flavored vodkas. My suggestion, get a flight and taste a few. 

Getting out of Town on a City Break?

Krakow is the second largest city in Poland, and while it’s not as overcrowded as other more popular European destinations, it is busy during peak season (June through August).  After spending a few weeks in Poland, it was one of the more crowded places I visited compared to smaller city visits like Poznan or Wroclaw. While Krakow can make for a great city break, there are a few things you can do just outside of the city that will get you away from the crowds.

Kosciuszko Mound

A massive grass covered mound, the Kosciuszko monument is a hill with a walkway corkscrewing to the summit which offers a great view of Krakow. The mound is right next to Wolski Forest, so you can escape the crowds of tourists in the city and have a little break in the countryside. There are well marked walking trails throughout the forest, so you can easily spend several hours exploring the outdoors. 

Ekosamotnia

Ekosamotnia is one of the nicest places I’ve stayed while in Poland. It is just outside of town so you can choose to be in the busy city, or keep to yourself in a quiet oasis. A small B&B, Ekosamotnia is eco friendly and the food alone is reason enough to book a room. The grounds are beautiful and the staff is outstanding. 

Choosing one of your city breaks to Krakow is the perfect way to enjoy a few days over a weekend in Europe. The accessibility along with the interesting things to see and do make for an ideal getaway. 

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