An Ethical Marrakech Travel Guide

Marrakech Travel Guide

I had my routine sorted out. During the week I was living and working in Asni and when the weekend came around, I’d take a shared taxi back to Marrakech and enjoy a few days in the city. Warm showers, big comfy beds and window shopping each Saturday and Sunday. I stayed at the same hotel, walked early each morning to explore the Medina. Every day, I passed a small shop with bright, beautiful artwork spilling from the doorway and onto the pedestrian dirt road. The quick, dark brushstrokes over bright greens, reds and yellows stood out against the pink walls of the Medina. As I would peek into the shop, a man short in stature wearing a crisp white shirt and smoking a cigarette would look up from his easel and flash a friendly smile.

This went on for a few weekends, and as this exchange repeated I noticed my eye would immediately go towards the same portrait hanging on the door. It was a vivid emerald background with a large, round, bald brown face with wire framed glasses. I would make up stories in my mind about who this smirking stranger was greeting me each day I imagine who this mystery man is that the artist rendered. Finally, I bought the painting. I asked the artist who the man was and it turned out to be his barber who also works on the same street.

In the weekends following my purchase, I often stopped by and chatted with the artist. When he found out I was a writer and photographer he asked if I would take a picture of his shop so the last weekend I showed up one morning with my camera, snapped a few pics and a few days later returned with a photo for him to keep. Now we both have reminders of our neighborly friendship.

For tourists, Marrakech can feel overwhelming. It’s easy to get lost, it’s a culture unfamiliar to many and at times being there can be a sensory overload. A friend explained to me that Marrakech is like a washing machine, spinning you around and spitting you out. I’ve created a guide that will help navigate the city a little better so you can have the chance to slow down and have more meaningful interactions like I had the chance to do while living in Morocco.

 

Things to See

Ben Youssef Madrasa is an Islamic School that dates back to the 14th century. Head over right after they open or shortly before they close to have time in the space with the fewest crowds.

Yves Saint Laurent Museum is a newer addition to the city. Built in 2017, the museum is a space that is dedicated to the fashion designer and his connection with Morocco. Not far from the museum is Jardin Majorelle, a beautiful urban garden. Go early! As the day goes on the line for the entrance grows so if you are there when they open at 8am you can have a more peaceful walk through the exotic gardens.

La Maison de la Photographie, or the Photography Museum has some stunning images of vintage Morocco. There is a great cafe on the top floor that offers a view over the Medina.

The Jewish Quarter of the Kasbah district is a distinct neighborhood that holds an interesting piece of Moroccan history. The Mellah was founded in the 15th century when the sultan created a space for Jews who were fleeing religious persecution.

Bahia Palace is a perfectly preserved representation of old world islamic and moorish architecture. Only a few of the 150 rooms are open to the public, but the ones that you can visit are painstakingly restored.

Jemaa el Fna is one of the iconic images of Marrakech. It is the large square in the city that represents life in the Medina but is very centered around tourists. It is crowded chaos and while I don’t recommend eating or shopping here, it is somewhere to go and look around. My opinion is go once to check it out and then find some more authentic parts of the Medina. There are food stalls and juice vendors that will try and entice you to have a meal here and the food here is hit or miss. I visited once for some sunset shots of the city and then I would pass through quickly when coming to and from the large taxi stand at the far side of the square.

With Marrakech as your starting point, you can see several sights with a road trip starting from the Red City and working towards the Atlas Mountains, the Sahara or further north towards Fes or Chefchaouen. I took a spectacular trip with Open Doors Morocco that began and ended in Marrakech, highlighting some of the best aspects of the country. 

Shopping Locally

Buying from local vendors or artisans is the best way to ensure your money is staying within the local economy. It’s an easy way to take a step towards being a more responsible traveler. There are quite literally thousands of souks, or small shops in the city so you can spend all of your dirhams here on souvenirs. Window shop first. My best advice is to look around, get an idea of what you like, the price points and then circle back to your favorite shops and buy. I have a tendency to spend my money where the people are friendly and not pushy. The souks are famous for haggling and they are charming as ever so, it is easy to leave a store with purchases after you’ve insisted on ‘just looking’.

Al Nour is a textile shop with a social enterprise initiative. Al Kawtar Women’s Cooperative is another fair trade style store that is making their staff a priority. They support their artisans as well as women with disabilities in the community.

Max & Jan is a high end store that works with young, local Moroccan designers to create funky, quality products.

33 Rue Majorelle is a concept store with new Moroccan brands creating a gallery style space with jewelry, house wares and accessories.

L’art du Bain has organic, hand made soaps that make perfect presents.

Pop Up Shop is located above Le Jardin restaurant. It has designer style with traditional kaftan flare.

El Fenn is a trendy Riad that is not only a chic place to stay, it also has a restaurant combined with boutique so you can take home unique treasures that make the hotel so stylish.

Can’t get to Morocco to shop or forgot to pick up something you can’t live without? Anou is an online fair trade site where you can purchase straight from the artisan. The best thing to do when trying to shop ethically is to find cooperatives. These are traditionally straight from the source, women run and can vary from a non-profit to a micro enterprise.

Moroccan Cuisine

They say the best food in Morocco is a home cooked meal. While I would tend to agree, you can get great meals in the Marrakech restaurant scene.

Le Jardin Secret is a respite from the madness in the Medina. I had afternoon tea here on several occasions, it is a great place to relax midday.

Amal was one of my favorite places in Marrakech. Not only is the food local and delicious, but the mission is inspiring. The non-profit empowers women through job placement and restaurant training.

Nomad is modern Moroccan fare using local ingredients. Cafe des Espices & Le Jardin are all run by the same restauranteur. Their locations have a similar esthetic but the menus are different and the food is across the board delicious.

Le Grand Cafe de la Poste really shows the French influence in the Colonial era architecture. If you want a more fully French meal, this is the place to be. I came with a book to read, enjoy a chill glass of rose and a lunch on the weekend. While it is a heritage building, for me it is a good reminder of the historical significance that the French have in the region.

Cafe Clock seems like a Moroccan culture staple. They have a location in Fez, Marrakech and Chefchaouen and they are well known for their camel burgers. It is a cool social setting where locals and tourists both congregate. They host cooking classes, live music and other events and their cookbook is a great souvenir.

 

Finding the Perfect Riad

The options feel endless when looking for accommodation in Marrakech. Staying in and around the chaos within the walls of the old city is where the tourists usually are.

What is a Riad?

Riads are traditional Moroccan houses with a courtyard in the center of the home. Much like a guesthouse, a Riad is more like a boutique hotel or Bed & Breakfast. One way to be a better traveler is to avoid staying in large hotels run by corporations instead of locals. The money you spend is less likely to stay in the community. I find you’ll get a better feel for what it’s like to live where you visit if you stay in a B&B or small locally run boutique hotel. Often the prices are comparable and I think it’s a more ethical way to stay.

My Favorite Riads in Marrakech

Riad 72 is just outside the medina down a quieter, more residential street. The staff is beyond helpful, they give you loads of information when you first arrive to help navigate through the city better, you have a local phone to use that has their number and a trusted taxi preprogramed in if you need, and the restaurant on site is phenomenal.

Riad dar Zaman is another boutique hotel with friendly staff and maybe the most comfortable bed I slept in throughout my whole Morocco trip. I came across dar Zaman when collecting tickets for my train from Marrakech to Casablanca. The riad also runs Marrakech Tickets, a way for foreigners to order train tickets online. This is a great way for those of us who don’t have a Moroccan based bank to order train tickets in advance and a portion of their sales go towards a Marrakech children’s charity.

La Ferme Medina feels like a country farm inside the city. The garden oasis and decor are the perfect escape from strolling through the crowded souks. The restaurant also serves delicious food so it was a perfect place for me to spend the weekend writing and relaxing.

Things to Know

Morocco is in Northern Africa and is easily accessible by flights from major international airports. Although it isn’t the capital (that’s Rabat) Marrakech is one of the more popular cities to visit. The currency used in Morocco is the dirham. Download the XE Currency app for your phone and put Morocco in before your trip. It works offline and it’s a great way to get quick conversion rates so you can avoid being ripped off. In the more touristy cities like Marrakech it is easy to find english speakers but most Moroccans speak Arabic, French or Berber. Impress a Moroccan by learning a few Arabic words.

• Marhaba is a simple hello
• Shukran is thank you
• la is no and naam is yes

Scams in the Square

Unfortunately, scamming happens often in Marrakech. Be smart and you can easily avoid being duped. Because you can get lost easily in the Medina, there are always people in the street trying to capitalize on your bad sense of direction. They will “help” you find what you’re looking for and then demand to be reimbursed for their good deed. They will tell you that you’re going the wrong way without knowing where you are actually heading. They will take you on a “special tour” of the tanneries and then expect a tip. I think the center of the scams is the Jemma al Fna Sqaure where you have the snake charmers and men with monkeys trying to get you to take a picture in exchange for money.

Henna tattoo is also overpriced in the square. You will find women walking around trying to convince you to get a overpriced henna tattoos. Walk just outside the square and go to the Marrakech Henna Art Cafe. It’s reputable and they work with the El Fenn Maroc, non profit which supports Moroccan artists and help preserve culture.

How can you avoid these scams? Use a good map. Ask a truly trusted source, like your hotel staff for accurate information. Go with your gut, if someone doesn’t seem trustworthy, trust your senses and politely decline.

Dress Code

Conservative is the way to go in Morocco. I avoided unwanted attention by doing as the locals do, not wearing shorts and tank tops, making sure to keep my legs and arms covered. Muslim women are usually dressed conservatively and so out of respect for the religion and culture, I found it best to do the same.

Getting Around

The city is really accessible by foot. There can be a lot of traffic on the roadway so it is often that you can arrive to your destination faster on your own two feet than by car. It is easy to get a taxi but I advise agreeing on a price before you take your ride to avoid any overcharges. Be sure to check with a staff member from your hotel to see what an average price should be for your ride so you have a better idea of what you should be charged. Right outside of the gate of Jemma al Fna Square is where you can find rows of shared cabs to other cities in the area. You pay less when the cab is shared with other riders and it is common in Morocco for taxis to pick up multiple people along the route.

Hammam

Check out a Hammam. Guess where I didn’t go? Royal Mansour and La Mamounia. Both are luxury properties with an instagram famous spas. Although I love using the platform for inspiration, I make it a habit to check out things that haven’t been plastered all over social media. My best hammam experience was actually the cheapest, the local hammam in Asni when I was invited to go with some women in the community where I was living. Sometimes the most authentic experiences provide the best memories. If public baths aren’t your thing, I’d recommend Les Bains de Marrakech or Hammam de la Rose.

You can easily spend your whole vacation simply exploring Marrakech alone. I’d advise you to get out and explore all the wonderful things Morocco has to offer but be sure to devote a few days of your itinerary here before you move on. Interested in planning your own itinerary? Reach out to Open Doors Morocco to have local advice when creating a perfect trip. These suggestions are just a sampling of what’s in store for your own Marrakech adventure!