Visiting Poznan, the Prettiest of Cities in Poland

Poznan City Break

A large crowd gathers in the square, bodies jammed in front of the Town Hall.  Necks stretched toward the sky, eyes gazing toward the face of the clock tower the top of the building. The group watches patiently, everyone waiting for something, or someone to appear, but what? I stand around the others, feeling a little silly to blindly follow strangers. I know all too often that if a crowd forms in an unassuming place, usually something interesting occurs.

A silence fell over the old square as the clock strikes noon. Cell phones are held up and at the ready to record. As the chimes reverberate through the center of town, a small door above the clock slowly opens and after a moment two white tin goats slowly crank from their dark hole. They turn to face each other, butt heads several times and retreat back to their home.  The group claps and cheers and just as quickly as the herd formed, everyone went off in their own directions and the traffic in the square returned to normal.

It’s a scene that occurs daily. History and folklore say that in the goats originated from a story of a cook preparing a meal for visiting dignitaries. The original meat and main course were overcooked so the chef had the idea of roasting two goats instead. The pair broke free and began butting heads in the square, attracting the attention of the townspeople. The mayor was so entertained he decided to make the duo part of the new clock tower construction.

The legend of the fighting goats is one of several reasons to be charmed and entertained by Poznan. Of all the cities in Poland, I think Poznan may be my favorite. Most people who travel to Poland end up visiting the popular cities of Warsaw, Krakow and Gdansk and miss exploring the other small towns throughout the country.

Where is Poznan?

Poznan is a small city in South Western Poland. It’s about 100 miles from the German border and a day trip from Warsaw.  Getting to Poznan is easy.  Most flights will connect through Warsaw, however I encourage you to take public transportation if possible. Its affordable, reliable and better for the environment. I took a train from Wrocław was only two hours, and a train from Berlin should be the same distance.  A day trip from Warsaw is also feasible, however it may take around 4 hours by train, so I would recommend at least an overnight if you have flexibility in your itinerary.

Getting around while in town is easy.  Cities in Poland are extremely walkable, so I recommend getting around by foot whenever possible.  The other fast option is the tram system.  There are automated ticket machines at every stop that take cash or card, so purchasing tickets are fast and simple. Don’t forget to validate your card once on the tram to avoid any additional fees! Several cities are listed on the public transit site that translates to English so you can find the quickest route to your destination.  The website also has a convenient app for when you are on the go.

While In Poznan

You’ll come for the architecture of the refurbished Old Town, but the charm of the rest of the city will keep you exploring past the square.  Stary Rynek, or the Old Market Square, is a town lay out from the 1200’s filled with old tenement buildings now restaurants, merchant houses turned shops and municipal buildings like the Town Hall.  Want to learn more about the history of Poznan?  I always recommend taking a free walking tour while visiting historical cities.  You’ll get to hear stories from locals along with becoming more familiar with the area with an informative guide.  Free Walking Tour Poznan did a great job highlighting all of the unique parts of the city AND they operate in other cities in Poland.

What to See

Take the pedestrian bridge to Cathedral Island, the birthplace of Poland. There you can visit the oldest cathedral in Poland, the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul.

Lake Malta is a man made lake near the center of town.  If it’s a nice day take the afternoon to walk, bike or kayak around the lake.

There are several museums in town, my personal favorite was National Museum. It is one of the largest in the country and has a diverse collection of national and foreign works. During the war, the museum was destroyed and many of the pieces in the collection were destroyed or stolen. After WWII, the Polish Government retrieved many of the works and slowly established a sizable collection. The highlight for me was the famed Claude Monet piece, the Beach in Pourville. This $1 million dollar painting was cut out and replaced with a cardboard copy in 2000. It was recovered and displayed a decade later.

Prefer to eat your art? The Saint Martin Croissant is a legally protected piece of city history and you can visit a museum that will show you the proper way to make this Polish delicacy. Remember they are closed on Mondays and check the Rogalowe Museum website for times when they operate their english tours.

Take a day trip to visit the Palace in Rogalin, just a thirty minute drive from Poznan. The 18th century Baroque palace was a home to the Raczyński family and while most of the original pieces of art and furniture were destroyed in WWII, the building was recently renovated and restored. In addition to the building itself, the grounds are beautiful Italian style gardens with three famous oak trees on the property.

Learn more about the history of Poland at the Imperial Castle. This was Hitler’s residence during German occupied Poland during WWII. Today, the castle serves as a historical and cultural center.

Where to Eat

For the size of the city, Poznan has several great restaurant choices.  There are plenty to choose from right in the old square, but I have a tendency to look past the center of the city and search for some more local favorites.

Stragan Kawiarnia is THE place for coffee in Poznan. It’s a small, unassuming cafe with a strict no americano rule. They serve high end coffee in a low key space. So you’ve found the best caffeine, now onto the best local dish. Pierogis are a Polish speciality and the place to order this traditional dish is Na Winklu.

Weranda Cafe is right next to the old square, with shabby chic decor and outdoor seating, it is a great place for brunch.  Lavanda is another cafe that can’t be missed. Fat Bob Burger is a short walk from the main square.  It offers fresh, quality burgers and as always, I find burger joints that have veggie options so everyone can enjoy their meals.

Want to check out the up and coming eats in the city? The Jeżyce neighborhood has all the international dishes you are looking for, in a hipster part of town just west of Old Town.

Where to Stay

I spent the weekend at Hotel Palazzo Rosso. It’s a small hotel with friendly staff, good location and reasonable prices. Blow Up Hotel 5050 is luxury boutique property with high tech amenities and modern art installations.  The building is a former brewery and the restaurant and bar are worth checking out.

Poznan is a perfect example of finding a place to visit that may not be on your immediate radar. Enjoy Poland and Pin to star planning your trip!