Weekend by the Sea: A Guide to Essaouira, Morocco

Essaouira Morocco

Africa’s “windy city”, Essaouira Morocco is a small ocean front town, blowing in north-eastern trade winds from the Atlantic, it’s a nice respite from the hot Moroccan climate.  The city is quieter than some of the larger touristic towns.  A place for surfers and seaside lovers, Essaouira has all the ingredients that make up a perfect weekend getaway.  The vibe is laid back, there’s good food and good weather.  I’ve broken down some sustainable & ethical suggestions to mix into your itinerary, ensuring a perfectly peaceful getaway from the souks while at sea.

The medina, or main square in old town is a UNESCO heritage city.  Essaouira was formally known as Mogador, which means small fortress.  The port had a long history linking Sub Saharan Africa with Europe, so the town has a long tradition of multicultural influences.

Why Come to Essaouira?

The town itself doesn’t have much of a major tourist attraction, but that is why I’d encourage you to go.  Inevitably, whether it’s a few days or a week, the chaos of places like Marrakech or Fes becomes overwhelming.  I’d advise to add a few days in Essaouira to wind down from all of the sensory overload that makes Morocco as exhausting as it is wonderful.  Consider tacking it the end of your road trip itinerary and if you need help putting one together, Open Doors Morocco and I have the perfect inspiration to get started.  

Every year in May or June, Essaouira Morocco puts on a music festival, that has been called the Woodstock of Africa.  Gnaoua World Music Festival deserves the comparison, it is said that the song “Castles made of Sand” by Jimi Hendrix was inspired by his visit to Essaouira.  If you’re looking for a beach party, this is the time to go.  If you’re looking for a calm weekend by the beach, this is the time to avoid.

Surfing may not be the first thing you conjure up when thinking Morocco, but the surf scene here is becoming more popular.  There are yoga & surf camps popping up all along the coast and Essaouria is no exception.  It’s a great low key place to learn, or find sections of larger swells for more experienced surfers.  Since it’s known as the windy city, add kite and windsurfing to the water sport list.

Things to Do

Walk around the fish market.  If you’re an early riser, poke around and watch the fishermen brining in their catches from the morning.  It’s a dream spot for the photographer or simply the curious.  This is the home to all the iconic blue boats, the color paying homage to the murex dye production on the Purple Islands dating back to Phoenician times.

Walk the city walls, you may recognize them from Game of Thrones.  The ramparts provide the perfect promenade to see the layout of old town and learn more about the history of this once settlement, turned fortress city, now hippy beach town.  The Skala du Port is the place to get a shot of the fortified old town.  It’s where to watch seagulls swoop down, the crisp ocean air whipping through your hair.  Open from 9 am to 5:30pm, avoid crowds early in the morning or towards the end of the day.

 

Fresh Catch

So where is the best place to get fresh, local seafood?  Right at the source, where the fisherman come back from sea at the port of course.  Food in Morocco is part of the vacation experience, a culinary treat.  Spices and cooking style is unique, offering a glimpse into local tastes and traditions.  If you walk down to the harbor, you’ll see small pop up food stalls cooking straight from the sea.  It’s not glamorous, but damn, it is delicious.

Ethical & Sustainable Food Spots

Umia is a small, romantic restaurant focusing on fresh, local, in season ingredients.  The menu changes weekly, based on inspiration from local markets with an international flare.  Since you can find good, cheap food in Essaouira, this can be a splurge date night spot.

Just outside Essaouira is La Fromagerie, where local goats and local grapes are the stars of the show.  Casual & cool ambience, a long, leisurely lunch is perfect here.  I challenge you to find something finer than a board of tasty fresh cheese.

Silvestro is a great little Italian restaurant, IF you are looking to escape the Moroccan cuisine.  Cravings for pizza can easily be fulfilled here.  The owner is originally from Milan, so you are getting Italian influences in North Africa.  This is a find for those picky eaters that need some variety in their palate.

Triskala Cafe has a daily changing menu with local, organic vegetables as the highlight.  This is a great restaurant to experience meat free Moroccan meals.

YOO Heathy Food has just that, nutritious options for fresh, local fruits & vegetables.  The cold pressed juices are refreshing and the frozen yogurt is delicious.  They are one of the only menus I saw that offers several gluten-free options, so it’s a great place to go to escape the mounds of Moroccan bread for an alternative.

Want a quiet corner to people watch, have a tea & relax?  Sahakfe is a cafe in one of my favorite corners of the old part of town.  Places like this capture the essence of Essaouria.

Shopping Spree

This is the town to save for your souvenir shopping.  Marrakech may have the famous Medina with the small alleys squeezed with shops, but Essaouira has a hassle free experience.  People here are more laid back which means you’ll have a better time window shopping without feeling pressured to buy.  You may not be able to haggle for cheaper prices here as you can in Marrakech, but I’d argue it’s not really worth it when the prices are more reasonable to start.

This is a great opportunity to try to buy things from the source.  Shopping locally is an easy way to participate in responsible tourism.  It generates income in the local economy & has the most impact, keeping profits it in the community.  There are great NGO & Co-operative shops to choose from all throughout Morocco.

Want to shop ethically in Essaouira?

Kif Kif has all locally made artisan products.  Great spot for housewares and jewelry.

Mashi Mushki highlights local, hand-made products.  A portion of the proceeds go to Project 91, a UK non-profit that helps prepare young people and women for jobs through education.

Villa Maroc has a small shop on the upper floor, that carries local boutique items.  They also sell quality Argan oils that are made from a sustainable, local cooperative.

Gallerie d’Art Damgaard is one of the oldest in town and features local artists.  It’s internationally known for its works, so you are sure to find a quality piece of art to hang on your wall at home to remember your trip.

The Art of the Deal

There are dozens of store fronts that line the white & blue plastered buildings.  Several are antique shops, rug makers and local craftsman.  You can’t go wrong if you find something that is made locally or in the country.  While shop owners here aren’t as aggressive as Fes or Marrakech, know that these people are GOOD at their job.

Many times I’ve gone into a store in Morocco to “just look” and I’ve left with a bag of merchandise.  A majority of small shops only take cash (or in this case, dirhams) so be sure to come with currency.  Negotiating in the medina is always an option, usually the price given first seems like a starting point for a haggle.  It’s a game that the shop owners love to play, and they often win.  I spend the first day getting a lay of the land, deciding what things I really want and then going back when I’m more prepared.  Be ready to get the “special deal” if you start to walk away from the shop empty-handed.

Can’t get to Essaouira but want those lovely Moroccan souvenirs?  Check out the ANOU, it’s a way to buy Moroccan goods directly from the artisans.  This online retail site cuts out the middle man, giving back to the artists.

 

Where to Stay 

With dozens of Riads and hotels in Essaouria, Morocco can be overwhelming to book accommodation.  I consistently found Villa Maroc on many sites as a top place and after staying for the weekend, I know what all of the fuss is about.  Friendly staff, great location and clean rooms, Villa Maroc has everything you need in a getaway hotel.

Breakfast on the terrace, overlooking the harbor is the only way to start a day.  The spa here is a great way to have an introduction to the traditional Moroccan Hammam.  A Hammam is similar to a Turkish bath, a steam room where exfoliate, rinse and relax.  Many hammam are public and for women and men it’s a weekly social activity.  A private hammam session in a spa is a way to see the process without being in a room full of strangers.

Villa Maroc has a sister property just outside of town, Les Jardins de Villa Maroc.  This is the ultimate retreat, a luxury home with a pool only a few minutes from old town.

Getting There 

Essaouira is an easy trip from Marrakech, and there are a couple of ways to get there.  There is a small airport that has flights with low-cost carriers from neighboring countries or their national airline, Royal Air Maroc.  Many flights transfer from Marrakech, so often people opt to stay there for a few days before heading out-of-town by road.

This route is where the famed Argan trees are found.  One easy way to point out which trees are Argan, you’ll often see goats climbing, precariously perched in the branches eating the fruit, leaving the seeds which create the famous oil.  Because of the high demand and simultaneous deforestation in Africa, conservation efforts have been put into place to keep production continuing.

This sustainability effort not only helps the biosphere, it also gives women a chance to leave the home for the workforce and stimulates local economies.

Bus to the Beach

If you don’t have a car, public transportation is very easy from Marrakech to Essaouira.  There are a few bus options, the extremely affordable public bus, or a tourist bus operator.  The tourist buses are more comfortable, reasonably priced and direct.  CTM and Supratours are the two popular bus companies for tourists.  Supratours seem to be fully booked more frequently, although after using both, there really isn’t much of a difference.  The one thing you’ll want to keep in mind is that each have their own bus stations.  One location may be more convenient than the other, so map out the distances before you book.  Supratours, for example is walking distance to the old town of Essaouria, so it’s more convenient if that’s where you are staying.

Travel tip: Book in advance, Supratours can sell out during weekends or busy season.

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