Skye’s the Limit: Isle of Skye, Scotland

It was my search for “Hairy Coos” or “Shaggy Moos” as I affectionately call them, that led me to Northern Scotland. I had gone to Dublin for a writing workshop and like most of my travel plans, a snow ball of ideas and further adventures quickly ensued. It began with hopping over to Scotland on my way to Germany to visit friends and ended with having a month and a half long European excursion.

In diving deep into my constant travel research, I decided I wanted to take a famous long train route up the coast from Glasgow to Mallaig. From there I could take a 30 minute ferry ride to the Isle of Skye and just from looking at the photos I hoped and prayed would be worth the hassle. Thankfully, I was right.

Is Skye an Isle or An Island?

So this trip had me scratching my head with confusing geographical terms yet again. What’s the difference between an isle and an island? Aside from the word isle evoking feelings like it’s an island’s snobby cousin there really isn’t any difference.  An Island is “a piece of land surrounded by water” and an isle is “an island or peninsula, especially a small one.” So really it’s prose verse poetry and my vision of an isle being a classy island is spot on.

A northern island in the chain of islands that make up the Inner Hebrides, Skye offers dramatic scenery and an ethereal mystique. Mountains, wildlife and unparalleled serenity surround you and the short few days I spent here were some of my more favorite times of this trip.

Things to do in Skye 

Visiting Portree

Being the largest town on the island I decided to stay here and work my way out of town on day trips. You can explore Portree in an afternoon but it’s charming scenery and friendly visitors will keep you happily entertained.  Shop for some tartan plaid gear, have a coffee at Cafe Arriba, or walk down to the harbor and bird watch.

Be prepared to be off the grid when visiting here, I had limited cell service most places on the island and in Portree there were only a few places with accessible wifi, thankfully a pub was one of them (using a bar as an office has its perks). Sometimes it’s nice to be in a place where you can’t access the outside world easily, as long as you are prepared for it!

The Portree Independent Hostel  was located in the center of town and had a friendly, welcoming staff.

Visiting Dunvegan

Sitting atop a hill overlooking a loch, Dunvegan Castle is the focal point of the town. The MacLeod family still calls this castle home, a place that their clan has occupied continuously for over 800 years making this castle one of the oldest occupied fortresses in Scotland.

The castle is full of stories both historical and magical and with over 30 generations residing here it has a lot to share. The tour was great, it gives you an overview of Scottish history along with some of the background of the family, the castle’s past, and of course the best part, the folklore. The best story from Dunvegan is the Fairy Flag.

Fairies are a prominent part of Scottish tradition so it isn’t a surprise that a fairy tale is entwined in the history of the castle. An old, deteriorated flag is proudly displayed, framed in the castle with a history of following men into battle, its magical powers helping to win wars during the crusades.  The faded yellow silk is thought to date as far back as between the 4-7th centuries making its tattered existence miraculous.

Whether you believe all of the things this flag has accomplished or not, it adds to the enchantment of Dunvegan Castle. Make sure you take the guided tour of the building, it’s fun, free and informative and don’t forget to leave time to walk around the castle, the gardens and view from the water’s edge are as equally as peaceful as they are beautiful.

Walking and Hiking in the Isle of Skye

There are phenomenal walks and hikes in this region of Scotland. When the weather cooperates, taking day trips and exploring the island is the best thing to do in Skye. 

In the Northernmost point of Skye, Quiraing is a stunning representation of the verdant hiking trails. The Old Man of Storr could arguably be the most iconic trail in Skye. A couple hours and an easy trail, the main reason for the hike is to visit the massive rock formations bursting through the grassy landscape into stone columns. 

Visiting Uig

A bay in the Trotternish peninsula, Uig is a village with a ferry stop a couple of shops a restaurant and a coffee shop and on a nice day it’s a great starting point to explore this part of the island. There is a brewery in Uig, a place to enjoy a pint after hiking in the Hebrides.   

Getting Around Skye 

There are several ways to not only get to Skye, but then get around while visiting. Many seem to drive, it is a scenic half day road trip from Edinburgh. With the influx of visitors, the small and narrow roads become congested and for this reason, I chose to use public transportation while in Scotland. I found that with a planning I got where I was looking to go by bus and by foot. There are timetables and route maps on Citylink and Stagecoach. 

Overvisited Isle of Skye

Since I have visited Skye, there has been a major problem with overtourism in the peak season (June through September). I will admit that when I was there, it was not as well known and I did not have the same problem with too many tourists or people bothering local lands. Can you visit a place where too many tourists are trodding around? I’m not going to be a gate keeper of travel, but I will provide a few suggestions on ways we can be more mindful of over loved areas.

If you’re looking to visit Skye, I’d recommend traveling during “shoulder season” to avoid crowds. Picking a month before or after busy season can make a difference when helping destinations combat over tourism. It benefits your wallet as well as your sanity, so it can be a plus for all parties.

Another idea is to take this visit as inspiration and choose another, less popular island. The Hebrides have several equally stunning locations you can choose from that all are accessible from major mainland cities.